Kansas Segment
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| Date | Miles | Comments | Stop |
|---|---|---|---|
| [6/6 Update]
Elaine drove me around Marshfield, Springfield, Branson (we hated it), Joplin
and Carthage. She dropped me off at a motel in Carthage in the afternoon June
4 and then she drove to Kansas City to catch her plane back to SLO. I put my bike back together (the compact car made disassembly a necessity) and then got up early the next morning and rode to Pittsburg Kansas. Things were starting to look more flat and I saw wheat fields and even irrigation equipment. In Pittsburg I went to the house of Steve Jones, a member of this club who has recently moved here. I spent the rest of June 5 and all of June 6 talking to him, getting my bike worked on, and doing a little sight seeing. Steve's wife is still in SLO and is not getting to Pittsburg until June 16 so I think he was glad for a little company. Anyway we had a good time talking about math and science, music and cycling. But now I am ready to get back on the road. No more visiting till Oregon!! | Pittsburg | ||
| R&R with Steve. | Pittsburg | ||
| I
hated to leave Pittsburg because I was having such a good time talking to Steve
Jones but I finally took off about 8:30. It was a beautiful day with a clear blue
sky and everything looked so clean. Kansas has to be the cleanest state in the
union. The only thing untidy about the state that I can see is all the turtles
and armidillos that get hit while crossing the road. The poor turtles that haplessly
try to cross the road are putting themselves at extreme risk. When they get out
on the road and a car comes, what do they do?? You guessed it. The turtles' defense
mechanism is useless when it is used on a paved road with heavy vehicles moving
at least 40 miles/hour. Sometime nice people stop and pick up the turtles,
carry I talked to a farmer who
was picking pie cherries. They looked like cherry tomatoes. They were not sweet
but they were tasty. He has 2300 acres and is just waiting for things to dry out
a bit and then he is going to harvest his wheat. Then he will plant soy beans
in the wheat stubble without plowing the ground. That way he gets two crops out
of one field. He plants a lot of corn too. It dires in the field and then the
He said that he and his brother and sons and nephews help him work the place, except that his brother fell off of one of the storage bins two years ago and "hasn't been much good since". He home schools his children. By noon the beautiful blue sky was gone and it looked like rain, but there was blue sky in the west, the directon I was going, so I kept riding, bucking the wind all the way. It didn't rain until 10 minutes after I checked into a motel in Chanute. | Chanute | ||
| While
eating my sausage biscuit with egg at McDonnell's this morning, an old geezer
said that he thought it was too cold for me to be wearing shorts. He said he had
lived in Chanute for 73 years and never seen it this cold in June. The only time
it was colder was when he was on the front lines in Germany during W.W.II and
he quickly segued into a drawn out account of his war time experience. When I went back for a coffee refill another old guy asked me if I was from England because he said that I have an English accent. He then proceeded to tell me about how he bought a book an an auction that happened to have a whole bunch of money in it. It was sunny and bright all day. The only thing keeping it from being perfect was the wind. It wears one down. Part of US 75 that I was on for a while had a perfect rumble strip set up. 6-8 foot wide shoulder, and right next to the white line was a rumble strip that would bring a semi to its knees. Deep gouges 3" wide and 15" long alternating with 3" of smooth road. I called the Kentucky Highway Department and suggested that they send all the rumble strip applicators in Kentucky to come to Kansas and see how it's done. Even though I had a strong head wind, I did not need my granny gear. I like to wear colorless glasses so I can make eye contact with drivers. It helps make them aware of me. But today the sun was so bright, I decided to switch my lenses and change my glasses into dark glasses. After doing so it was much easier on my eyes. | Eureka | ||
| The
first 20 miles were brutal because of the winds but after that things improved.
At lunch in Cassoday I talked to a guy who was building a fence for a holding
pen. Using 6 strands of barbed wire because the fence was going to get heavy use.
He had boots with spurs on. Another guy came in and talked about just getting
back from Wyoming where he had taken some horses for sale. Said he did not get
a good price for them. Tomorrow he was going to Missouri and hope for better prices.
Prices for cattle are up right now, but not, apparently, for horses. Newton is the heart of Mennonite country and I saw many Mennonite churches on the 39 miles between Cassoday and Newton. I rode around Newton a little after I got there and it looks like a great town. Nice old residential sections and a Main Street that had no vacant store fronts. Maybe they kept Wallmart out, but somehow I doubt it. | Newton | ||
| 6/10 | 66 | I got off
to a slow start today partly because I dreaded bucking the wind like I did the
day before. But the gods were kinder. I still had a head wind but it was a gentler
one. I also saw a lot of bicyclists. They are part of "Bike Accross Kansas"
(or "BAK") a 28 year old ride that goes from the Kansas/Colorado state
line to the Kansas Missouri State line. It's an eight day trip and about 1000
riders participate. I only saw about one third of the riders because there are
three different routes to choose from. There is sag support and they carry your
tents and sleeping bags for you. Everyone on the ride seemed to be having a good time. They were laughing and socializing has they rode along. A sharp contrast to how I have felt in the past two days bucking the wind. I stopped at one of the stops and got some shaved ice (lime) most refresing in the middle of a hot muggy day, except that horse flies were all over my legs and I had to continually brush and stomp to keep them off. Even so I got bit hard in several places. I stopped in Buhler to eat lunch and met Bicycle Jim, a retired mail carrier who is the self appointed caretaker of touring cyclists. He said if I needed anything he would get it for me and listed all the places that I could spend the night that were west of where we were. He did a lot of riding at one time (did Ragbrai three times) but not much any more. He is a nice guy but I was glad when I could gracefully extracate myself from his company. I ate dinner in Nickerson at the sunshine cafe. I had the special: green beans, noodles with beef all heaped onto mashed potatoes ($4.50). Really hit the spot with me. On the wall, the cafe had posted a certificate from the WCTU congratulating the Sunshine Cafe for running an alcohol free establishment and thus contributing to family values and personal health. I thought the WCTU had long since gone out of existance, so I looked for Carrie Nation's signature at the bottom of the cert. But the cert bore a recent date and was signed by the head of the Reno County chapter. After dinner, it was still warm and only about 5:30 pm. There was lots of daylight left so I rode on an additional 13 miles to Sterling for the night. Sterling is a college town (Sterling College) and the down town area looks a little like the area around Andrini's in Arroyo Grande. Especially since, when I got there, another BAK group had moved into town for the night and there were lots of bikes leaned up against the ajoining restaurant and cafe. It was such a pretty place and the evening was so balmy that I was really glad that I did the extra miles and got to Sterling. | Sterling |
| 6/11 | 93 | I
went into Sterling for breakfast and all three restaurants were full of BAK riders.
I picked one at random and met a BAKer who teaches at McPherson College north
of Newton. He said this was his 9th BAK and he loves it. He said that McPherson
and Sterling are part of a consortium of small chruched based colleges in the
area. They are all linked together by computers and a student at any school take
take a class at any member school (like when that class is not offered at the
home school). He said that faculty also teach classes at other campuses from time
to time. He said that Sterling, the town, used to be called PEACE, but the name
was changed around the time of the Korean War. He is not sure why the change was
made. I went to the grocery store and bought a lot of juice and water because I had 55 miles to go through without as much as a quickie market. But once I hit the road I was flying. It was flat and no wind or maybe a slight tail wind. I was in my big chain ring the whole morning. I got to Larned Kansas about 1:00 and my average speed was 14.1 mph. I bet Lance could have averaged 40 mph under those same conditions. Just outside Larned I met a guy coming the other way. He too, like the first guy I met in Kentucky, had had his troble with dogs. he was carrying a mt bike handlebar as a weapon against dogs. I told him that I had not had any trouble and had even given my can of mace to the bike shop owner in Pittsburg. This guy was a real animal. He said he rides from sunrise till just before dark (6:00 am to 8:30 pm currently) and pretty much drops wherever he is. He had stayed last night in a roadside rest stop. I would not like doing that. He had come from San Diego in about 26 days. In the afternoon going from Larned to La Crosse I made almost the same average speed. The main trouble was that I ran into SBS. [NOTE: Shell Beach Syndrome ("SBS") is a well recognized road pathology in bicycling literature. It consists of an otherwise adequate road with 2" - 3" wide grooves spaced about 10 yds - 12 yds apart, said grooves running perpendicular to the cyclists direction of travel. Most cyclists report riding over a road with SBS to be extremely annoying.] When I got to LaCrosse I was really hot - I felt hot down to my core (where ever that is). I got a room in the crummiest motel I have ever been in and took a cold shower, then I took a nap starting around 6:30. When I woke up it was dark and the only thing open was a gas station convenience store. So I had popcorn and a bean burrito for dinner. | LaCrosse |
| 6/12 | 97 | Another
big mile day. Average speed was 13.4. Riding today was like riding a stationary
bicycle. The peddle pressure reamins constant, and the scenery does not change.
At least not much. Don't get me wrong: Kansas is beautiful. I always thought of
Kansas as flat and boring but that is a stereotype that can not survive this trip.
True it is pretty flat and it's getting flatter, the further west I go, but it
is beautiful. It's gradually changing from green (lots of corn fields and irrigation)
to brown (wheat fields and grass). In the rural parts of New Mexico and Arizona
it is common to see Navahos wearing western shirts, driving pickup trucks and
wearing rayban sun glasses (the kind with the wire rims that cover everyting above
the cheekbone to the eyebrow). Now I am starting to see this same kind of person
here in western Kansas. What's next - tumbleweeds? I feel like I am practically
home. Actually the reason that I have time to send these e mails from the last 3 days is because I stayed in Scott City today (June 13) because I developed a toothache. I was really hurting and I called my dentist in SLO and was told to take advil. This did help and this morning it felt a lot better but I diecided to go see a dentist. Luckily there is one here in Scott City. I just went to his office at 8:45 am. It was closed. At nine a woman came to open the door. I figured it was the nurse opening things up but it was the cleaning lady. She said that the office was closed on Friday. "You won't find a dentist in western Kansas that is open on friday" she said. I talked to the cleaning lady for a minute and then she said she would call the dentist at home and see if he would come in. He came in about 20 minutes later and looked things over but felt that it was a minor irritation that would clear itself up in a few days. He also recommended advil. So I am just taking it easy today. It was raining anyway so if you can't ride, you might as well go to the dentist. Not only is it raining, but in the next town 20 miles down the road, Leoti, there was 4 inches of hail. Anyway I am trying not to do anything to irritate this tooth. | Scott City |
| 7/13 | I spent another day in Scott City so I could see a dentist about a toothache. He did a little minor work, but it didn't amount to much. | Scott City |
| Emails Received | ||
|---|---|---|
| 6/5 | Steve Jones | Picture of Tom at my house in Pittsburg, Kansas.![]() |
| 6/10 | Ben Patrick | Hey Tom! Today, the Yellowjackets were nesting in the Garden
Cafe, Los Osos, enjoying coffee and talking about yours and Joan's adventures - haven't forgot you guys! All I can say is that I am envious! There is nothing like the rich experience that comes with touring with "yourself"! Got to do it soon. |