Colorado Segment


DateMilesCommentsStop
6/14
111

The weather was threateing but I took off early and was pleased to find that I had no headwind and possiblly a tailwind. I went pretty fast and stayed in my large chain ring all day (the thrill that comes but rarely in one's lifetime). My first town was Tribune (KS) at 46 miles. I arrived around 11:40. However since I had entered the Mountain Time Zone about 5 miles back it was now only 10:40. The next town was 58 miles away. After realizing that 10:40 am was just a little early to start looking for a place to sleep, I continued. The sky looked bad and it was getting darker but I sped on. This time I was even faster. If I started to slip below 16 mph it felt like something was wrong.

The sky seemed to get better as I got faster. The clouds in the Kansas skies don't seem to move. They coalasce and then disburse. Dark clouds can appear overhead and the sun can be shining on you from the east. Similarly, you can be in the shade of a bunch of clouds and yet sunny skies are ahead of you.

Even though I was on a fairly busy highway, truck drivers gave me lots of room. Most people waived as they passed: from the full hand waive of a Bethel College co-ed to merely lifting an index finger off of the top of the steering wheel by an old turkey necked farmer.

People in Kansas are so friendly. When I stop at a store or gas station, someone usually approaches and askes about the trip. People in Kansas are just more sociable. Maybe it's because everything is so open and flat. Maybe the topography makes you realize that you really can't hide so you might as well learn how to deal with other people and the best way to deal with them is to start out being friendly. I am constrasting this to a place like Eastern Kentucky. On the roads I was on in eastern Kentucky, you can't see much more than 50 yards in any direction. That must have the effect of making an Eastern Kentucky denizen feel more isolated and make it easy to avoid contact with others. Thus social skills are reduced.

Economics also probably palys a role. It's easy to be open and friendly when you are able to earn a good living. When you are having trouble making ends meet, it probably harder to be open and friendly. Needless to say, Kansas looks a lot more prosperous than does Eastern Kentucky.

I was thinking how much I liked Kansas when I realized that I was at the Colorado State line. After entering Colorado, the number of the state highway did not change. I was still on state highway 96. Another example of intrastate cooperation. However Colorado's highway 96 has a terrible case of SBS. (NOTE: for a discussion of SBS, Shell beach Syndrome, See June 11) For twenty miles there were big gaps in the road. Some of them wide enough to hide a scotch tape dispenser. It was terrible, especially since I had already done about 65 miles and I was getting tired and testy. After 80 miles I reached Sheridan Lake (An upscale sounding name for a town but actually it's a nothing place) and my average speed was 15.7 mph for the entire day. SBS slowed my down after that. I just couln't stand those bumps. When I got to Eads I was really hot so I took a cold shower and then took a nap.

Eads
6/15
61

Today was back to reality in the speed department. There was a wind coming out of the south and it seemed that highway 96 kept curving more and more south. Thus the wind grew stronger as the day progressed.

This part of Colorado is similar to Kansas except it is drier and not quite as flat. Also the landscape has a more purple hue.

After 55 miles I stopped for lunch at Sugar City. It used to be a big sugar beet growing and processing area. But the mill pulled out and the farmers sold their water rights to farmers further north. All the fields went back to grass.

I got to Ordway around 4:00 pm and took another cold shower and a nap. I like hot weather, but the heat can really sap my strength sometimes.

Next two stops will be Pueblo on Monday and Canon City on Tuesday. Then the climbing begins!

Ordway
6/16
50
I got a late start this morning. I got up early and walked around the town. It was bright-sunny-clear and the town has a real desert southwest feel to it. In case anyone is interested, Ordway has for sale a 1,650 sq foot two story house on a 12,600 sq ft lot all remodeled, three bedrooms, two baths, garage and shop "with a large close (sic) closet in the master bedroom". Priced to sell at $38,000.

The bakery opened at 7:00 am. This is in a small adobe building with a crude hand painted sign saying "family bakery". I pointed to what I though was a danish, and the owner said it was a "figure 8". A sign advised that all student accounts must be paid in full by the end of the school year. I asked her if she gave elementary students credit and she said she did but only if the parents signed a promise to pay the student's bill, and only if she knew the parents were reliable. I wanted to ask her if this would stigmatize a student whose parents she didn't like, but I didn't. the figure 8 was still warm and was might tasty (and the coffee was free - can you believe it. The figure 8 and the coffee cost me 78 cents).

The ride to Pueblo was uneventful. I passed through three small towns and each one had an elevation approximately 100 feet higher than the previous town. A harbinger of things to come as I will soon be seriously in the Rocky Mountains. Here in Pueblo I am already at 4,500 ft elevation and it feels like sea level. By contrast when I went from 1,600 ft to 3,300 feet the day I climbed up to and over the Blue Ridge Parkway back in Virginia, I felt like I was in the stratosphere. I guess everything is relative.
Pueblo
6/17
41
Ever since I passed Tribune Kansas I have been riding toward a very impressive wall of mountains. I tried to imagine what it would be like to be on a covered wagon around 1850 looking at those mountains. Without a guide or a map or some direction I would probably ask myself whether I could be happy in Iowa after all. It's a formidible blue and purple wall. Absent a road, there is no obvious way to proceed.

Today as I rode to Canon City I got got closer to the mountains but at the same time they seemed to close around me into a semicircle. Tomorrow I start some serious climing so I called it quits after 40 miles. Besides I would have to go another hard 25 or so to
get to a place to stay.

Canon City (elevation 5300')
6/18
38
It was a miserable day because of the weather. I finally stopped in a little town off the main road (highway 9). I stayed in a hostel. Met a nice couple - a pair of teachers from the University of Georgia. They got in after me and were rally soaked -- but they didn't seem to mind. There had been a little tornado the day before which ripped the roof off the only other place people could stay, so we ended up sharing the one room that was available. They had a nice little stove, so we "feasted" on oatmeal for dinner!Guffey (elevation 8750')
6/19
41

The sky look terrible in the morning, but I started early hoping to get somewhere before it started raining. I had breakfast in Hartsel after cresting Currant Creek Pass (at 9500'), and then resumed the climb. For the first time I thought I could feel the elevation, which worried me because of the climb to Hoosier Pass. I made it to within three miles of Fairplay before the rain hit. The Georgia couple started later and got really soaked, again. It was really cold and I could never warm up. We both stayed in the same motel (which was quite bicycle friendly) and had a nice dinner together.

Fairplay (elevation 10,000')
6/20
41

The three of us got up early and had breakfast at the Brown Burro. Then we started the climb to Hoosier Pass (at 11,500'). The climb was about 1500 feet over 13 miles, so it was a lot of work, but it was worth it. What a joy when we got there. The sky was clear, the mountains snow covered -- absolutely gorgeous.

My cell phone worked, so I called the people I was gong to meet that night. We had a great conversation going. Then the clouds rolled in so the Georgia couple left and continued on their way. I started thinking about the storm in Mt Everest (Into Thin Air) and wondered if I might get caught, so I ended the call and began my descent.

Along the way I went thorough Breckenridge which is a real tourist town. Continued on to Silverthorne where I met my friend from Boulder, Maya. The Georgia couple continue on -- not sure where they stayed. Maya and I talked well into the night.

Silverthorne (elevation 8800')
6/21
38
I had a terrible ride today, certainly the worst of the trip. There was just too much traffic, and no shoulder. At one point I actually got forced off the rode by one car that was determined not to slow down or to make any room for me (he just honked and expected me to get out of his way -- which I did).Kremmling (elevation 3500')
6/22
64

This was a hard day in the morning. There were headwinds as I fought my way to the summit of the pass. After that things improved.

Walden claims to be the Moose viewing capital of the world (although Tom didn't mention seeing any).

Walden

Emails Received
6/14Bruce Collier Kansas is a nice place---to be from.
Colorado will provide some scenery as soon as your get far enough
across to see it. Canon City can be interesting. Watch out for coyotes and loose women. I was last there in 1959.
6/15Billy Bob HatfieldI've had enough with the bad mouthing of us southern folk. You've been saying bad things about my Kentuk buddies for too long. Well, you better be watching 'cause I got one of those trucks with a Bush sticker and a gun in the back of the cab -- and I'm lookin' for you to treat you like my granddad did to those hippie geeks back in the 60's.
6/16Matt & Rita ColonellHi Tom -- We are following your journey very closely, and hanging on your every word. Thanks for keeping such a great journal. Reading about how many miles you are riding every day and all the hardships (wind, rain, bad motels, bad food) you are facing makes us feel like we have it pretty easy here at home in SLO. Be careful out there, and savor the feeling of satisfaction that you have earned!
7/19Ben PatrickTom! I see that you will soon be going through Walden - nothing much
there to stop for although I have some fond memories of the place. In 1941, I took my first airplane ride there with my cousin who was at that time a student pilot! My cousin homesteaded on Rabbit Ears pass in 1930 and then moved to Walden to run the water purification plant. In Walden he built a log cabin house in the late 30's and in the 50's covered the inside with wall board and the exertion with Sears siding as it wasn't "cool" to live in a log cabin in the fifties! So, you might notice that some of the otherwise common appearing houses there have really thick walls for they really are log cabins. Enjoy riding, at ten-thousand fee, through North Park - don't freeze and don't get blown away!